While I'm not saying that there isn't lovely Pinot Noir to be found in California (or in Oregon or in New Zealand), I think that those who are interested in appreciating this varietal should search out the wines from the French province of Burgundy, especially those from the Cote d'Or. It is here that the Pinot Noir produces some of the greatest wines in the world.

While the wines from Grand Cru vineyards such as Chambertin and Romanee-Conti can fetch thousands of dollars per bottle, there are, for those of us who aren't millionaires, some reasonably affordable wines that still provide lots of "wow," and which give a sense of terroir that characterize Burgundy.

Jean-Luc Dubois's 2004 Savigny-les-Beaune comes from a small vineyard called "Les Picotins." The wine has a seductive nose of freshly turned soil, dried cranberries, rosehips, and other small red fruits. It has great textural mouthfeel and is well balanced, with supple fruit, silky tannins, and supportive acidity. It has a finesse and sense of authenticity rarely found in New World Pinots.

A lovely wine at $23.99.