Poggio le Volpi 2004 Frascati Superiore
Frascati is not only the name of a wine but also the name of a town that overlooks the chaos that is Rome. A few years ago, at the end of a two week vacation in Umbria, Tuscany and finally, Lazio, my fiance and I spent a few days stomping around in Rome, enjoying the sights of the city on a weekend that preceded Palm Sunday. The city was more packed than usual, and accomodations were hard to find. Months earlier, while planning the trip, I found an available room in a recommended place one evening, but they were booked the next night. I scoured to find something available and reasonably affordable, and ended up booking a room in a place that I knew nothing about. It turned out to be one of the most miserable places I've ever stayed in, with a V-shaped "bed" that caused instantaneous backpain. The place was dingy and the shower provided two temperatures/levels of force: boiling hot blasts or a tepid trickle. I was starting to feel a little travel weary as it was, and our Roman holiday was threatening to become unfun. I grudgingly paid the owner, in advance, in cash, a sum which far outweighed any sense of what we were getting in return. Note to self: book early, and don't go to Rome before Palm Sunday or Easter.
My mood started to change when I got in touch with Nino, an Italian acquaintance of mine. He and his girlfriend spirited Celeste and I out of the city at a breakneck speed even by Italian standards. We drove out through the city and ascended into the hills, arriving in Frascati. Here, the air was cooler and cleaner, and though one could see the sprawl of the city and the airplanes descending into the Ciampino Airport, there was a not-very Roman tranquility on the streets. Nino took us to a working-class cafeteria-like establishment which, despite the lack of decor or formality, offered some of the best food on our trip. To accompany the pasta carbonara, the pizze, and beef with arugula, we drank white wine out of stemless glasses poured out of unlabelled bottles. I felt myself relaxing, enjoying the convivial clatter of patrons, and the sense of authenticity.
Truth be told, the Frascati Superiore from Poggio Le Volpi is a much better version of the stuff in the jug. It is produced from two strains of Malvasia with a smaller amount of Bombino. It has subtle floral aromas as well as a nectarine like note, and finishes with a mineral quality that reminds one of the volcanic origins of the soil here. It's a classic match for pasta carbonara and lighter fare such as white pizza.
I would recommend for anyone making a trip to Rome to set a half day or so aside for a visit to Frascati where you'll find respite from the chaos, and, if you look about, some fabulous food. Until then, you can at least savor the wine of Frascati.
Posted by peter on May 05, 2006 in category: Wine - White
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