I know some people who enjoy drinking one particular type of wine, day-in, day-out, regardless of weather or season. Whether it's an arctic day in February or a sultry one in mid-August, they gravitate towards a particular grape or style of wine (and sometimes even a specific label). My taste in wine, on the other hand, very much follows the seasons. In fact, it is possible that I drink more rose than any other "type" because it seems particularly well suited to Richmond during the mild months from May through October. When it's mild out, I tend to eat lighter fare and cook outdoors when possible, and rose is often what I want.

But right now, as I watch the water freezing in the birdbath in my yard, I don't want rose, I don't want lighter fare, and I want to spend as little time outdoors as possible! I want a fire in the fireplace, some hearty food, and a wine to match. While Piemontese reds often provide a suitable pairing with the foods I eat during the winter months, I "occasionally" like to branch out and try something a little different, such as the Madiran from Chateau Laffitte-Teston.

Made from grapes harvested from 70 year-old Tannat vines and aged for more than a year in barrel, this full-bodied, structured red offers plenty of dark currant and berry flavors, woodsy-earthy notes (like an old bed of leaves in the forest) and subtle vanilla hints. Despite its deep-toned nature, the Laffitte-Teston Madiran is a surprisingly graceful wine, especially when served with winter-friendly fare such as braised beef or meat-centric stews or aged cheeses. "Perhaps" it might even provide some wine deliciousness for a summer barbecue . . .