Over the past few decades, Italy has emerged not only as the world’s largest wine producing country but also as a producer of some of the most recognized wine monikers in the world. Arguably, Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti Classico, and Brunello di Montalcino represent the best known Italian wines in the world, yet express offerings from just two of Italy’s twenty regions (Piemonte and Toscana). The remaining 18 regions, ranging from the Alpine reaches of Valle d’Aosta and Alto-Adige to the subtropical climes of Puglia and Sicilia all produce interesting and idiosyncratic wines yet remain, to varying degrees, less well known. Perhaps one of the most forgotten regions of Italy, winewise and otherwise, is Calabria.

Using the “Italy as a Boot” visual, Calabria lies in the toe, just across the Strait of Messina from Sicily. Rugged, isolated, underdeveloped and poverty-stricken, Calabria is probably as well-known for its local organized crime entity known as Ndrangheta as anything else. During the past several decades, many inhabitants of this region have emigrated overseas or at least to the more prosperous northern regions. “La Vita Bella” is perhaps more elusive here than in Florence or Rome, but there is still a wealth of art and culture and history here that deserves attention. There is also, assessing Odoardi’s Savuto Rosso, the potential for incredibly complex and rewarding wines.

Made from a definitively-local assemblage of 45% Galioppo, 15% Greco Nero, 15% Nerello Cappuccio, 15% Magliocco Canino and 10% Sangiovese (okay, this last one is perhaps less exotic), this well-knit red delivers a complex melange of aromas and textures that defy complete encapsulation but which include such things, to varying degrees, as cherry and strawberry jam, menthol, black tea, Chinese five spice powder and mulch. While this wine has upfront accessible fruity components, it’s a complex, structured wine best suited to accompanying heartier fare: aged sheep milk cheeses, meat stews, barley and mushroom concoctions. . . Let’s just say, it’s perfect for hungry, comfort-loving folks on wintery days (I’m writing this after leaving work early due to snow and ice.) The best thing is that this wine costs $14.99. The bad thing is that there’s an inconsistent availability of this wine, so you’ll just have to get it when you can!